“Grass-fed” has now become a food buzz
word. A variety of claims have been voiced about grass-fed beef – the beef
produced from grass-fed cattle. Advocates contrast grass-fed beef to beef
produced by Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs). In some ways,
grass-fed is obviously greener, more humane and more healthful than CAFO beef.
And the demand for it is growing. Some advocates even recommend grass-fed as an
opportunity for vegetarians to start eating meat! One Vermont farmer named Bruce
Hennessey, himself a former vegetarian, now produces grass-fed beef. He sees it
as a small revolution: “Now we produce meat for recovering vegetarians,” he told
Eating Well magazine
earlier this year.
But I’m not so sure. I think we need to evaluate grass-fed beef from a variety
of angles and by comparing it to several different kinds of meat production,
beginning with the much maligned CAFO mode of production.
There is no universal definition of “grass-fed” at this time,
but we can contrast CAFO beef production with the definition of grass-fed used
by the American Grass-fed Association (AGA). Some of the differences between the
two are striking:
1. CAFO cattle are fed mostly corn and soy during the last
six months of their lives; grass-fed consume only “forage,” which usually means
grass and hay. Production of corn and soy for beef cattle (instead of for
humans) is a very inefficient use of resources. Grass-fed beef is less
resource-costly.
2. CAFO cattle are confined in feedlots, whereas grass-fed
cattle are free-range.
3. CAFO cattle are given antibiotics and hormones on a
regular basis, but grass-fed cattle are not.
4. CAFO feedlots collect vast amounts of manure in a small
area, causing air pollution when the wind blows and water pollution when it
rains, leaching into the groundwater. Grass-fed cattle are natural manure
spreaders and, if not overgrazed, distribute fertilizer throughout the pasture.
5. CAFO beef has high levels of cholesterol and saturated fat
but low levels of omega fats and vitamin E. Grass-fed has less cholesterol, less
saturated fat, more omega fats and more vitamin E. Grass-fed also contains
conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which may be an anticarcinogen.
6. CAFO is readily available in markets and restaurants.
Grass-fed is not readily available and is more expensive.
Grass-fed methods of beef production are clearly better for the environment,
better for the cattle and better for the consumer’s health. Better than CAFO
beef production, that is. We need to take a closer look to determine whether
grass-fed beef is, in itself, a wise food choice.
How Green is Grass-fed Beef?
Consumers tend to mix and blend the terms “grass-fed” and
“organic.” The perception is that grass-fed is enviro-friendly and healthful, so
an assumption is made that it is also organic. Here, we enter the murky waters
of certification and labeling...
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Gene C. Sager is Professor of Environmental
Ethics at Palomar College in San Marcos, California.